Installation detailing

Vertical vs. horizontal siding: furring, panel layout, seams and install cost

Both go on the same wall and both shed water. What separates them on an estimate is not the look. It is what the fastener lands in, and everything that has to change behind the panel to give it something solid.

White vertical board-and-batten wall with black-trimmed windows, and a neighbouring house in horizontal lap siding behind it
Vertical board and batten on one of our jobs, with horizontal lap siding on the house next door. One frame shows both layouts, and why the batten lines have to be set out from the openings.
Nailing base
Lap crosses the studs; vertical runs parallel to them and lands between
Furring
Horizontal strips at the spacing the panel instructions state
Seams
Every vertical joint has to land on framing or furring
Knock-on
Furring pushes the wall out, so trim and corner depth move with it

The difference that drives the estimate: what the fastener lands in

Lap siding runs across the studs. Every course crosses framing at regular spacing, so a nail driven at the layout mark finds solid wood whatever the sheathing is. Vertical siding runs the way the studs run: parallel to them, and mostly through the empty bay between them, where a fastener has nothing but sheathing to bite.

That one piece of geometry produces every other line on a board-and-batten quote: the furring, the deeper trim, the layout time, the higher waste factor. It is not a style surcharge. It is a framing problem you solve before the first board goes up.

Furring: the line item a cheap vertical quote leaves out

The usual fix is horizontal furring: strips fastened through the sheathing into every stud, over the weather-resistive barrier, at the spacing the published instructions call for. The panels are then fastened to the furring rather than to the wall. Three things follow, and all three cost money.

  • The wall gets thicker. Everything that dies into the wall face moves out with it: window and door trim, jamb extensions, corners, the soffit return (where the underside of the roof overhang meets the wall), hose bibbs, dryer vents, exterior boxes. On a retrofit those parts take the hours.
  • The drainage plane takes more fasteners, which is a reason to detail the barrier fully before the strips go on, and never after.
  • You gain a drainage gap, and in freeze-thaw country that is a genuine upside. Furring turns the assembly into a vented rainscreen: water behind the cladding has somewhere to run, and air behind the panel dries the back face.

The alternative is a panel whose own instructions permit direct vertical application over a specified sheathing. Those products exist. What does not exist is a site decision that the studs are close enough together.

Panel layout and seam strategy

Lap

Lap layout is a levelling problem. The starter strip sets the first course and every course after it repeats whatever error is in that line: a sixteenth out at the corner is a visible wander by the time you reach the frieze. Butt joints get staggered so no two land in the same bay on consecutive courses, each lands on framing, and the manufacturer's joint treatment goes in behind it: flashing on fiber cement and engineered wood, a factory joiner or a lapped end on vinyl.

Vertical and board and batten

Vertical layout is a dividing problem, done on paper before anything is cut. Panel and batten spacing has to divide the elevation evenly, land on furring, and reconcile with the openings. A batten running into the edge of a window casing reads as a mistake even when the spacing is technically right. We set a reference near the middle of the wall and work outward so both ends finish the same width.

Battens have one rule that gets broken constantly: a batten is fastened so it does not pin two boards together. Drive the fastener through both and the wall is locked rigid across a joint that has to move, and the boards split the first time the temperature swings thirty-odd degrees between afternoon and dawn. Vertical vinyl expresses the same principle differently: the nail goes in the centre of the slot and stays loose enough that the panel can slide.

Where the install hours actually go

Same wall, two orientations: the work that differs
ItemLapVertical
Nailing baseExisting framing, straight to the wallHorizontal furring, or a panel cleared for direct application
LayoutLevel the starter, stagger the butt jointsDivide the elevation, reconcile battens with the openings
SeamsHorizontal butt joints, flashed and staggeredVertical joints, every one on framing or furring
Trim depthUnchangedMoves out by the furring thickness at every opening
WasteOffcuts reusable across the elevationCut to wall height, offcuts often stranded
Where it failsThe butt joint nobody flashedThe seam that missed the furring

Waste belongs in that list too: lap offcuts move to the next opening, while vertical panels are cut to wall height and the remainder is usually stranded (worse on gables). Averaged across a house the material cost of the two sits closer together than most people expect. The labour does not. A quote showing vertical and lap at the same number has either priced furring into the lap side or left it out of the vertical one.

Mixing the two on one house

Board and batten on a gable over lap on the field walls works, and the transition is a detail rather than a colour change: a horizontal band with a sloped top and a drip edge, flashed and lapped over the course below. Butting the two materials and running a bead of sealant across the joint is the version that leaks in year three.

If you are choosing a profile for your own house, the siding profiles and materials we install are laid out on our siding page.

From the clipboard

Questions we get on the tailgate about panel direction

Next step

Send us the elevation and we will price it both ways

Lap and vertical are two different labour packages on the same wall. Give us the address and we will measure the elevations, work out the furring and trim scope the vertical option needs, and set the two side by side in writing. Furring depends on the panel's published instructions, which we read before pricing.

  • Every opening measured on site before anything is priced
  • Manufacturer rating and warranty documents handed over with the scope
  • Our own crews install what we sell

Put it in writing

The written estimate names the product line, the profile or glass package, the flashing and trim scope, and what is excluded.

The shop line is (775) 391-8487, Monday to Friday, 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM.

Get a written estimate

Call (775) 391-8487